Male Apistogramma cacatuoides- (photo by Craig Taylor)
Scientific Name : Apistogramma cacatuoides
Common Names : Cockatoo Dwarf Cichlid
Common Varieties : Orange Flash, Double Red, Triple Red
Origin : Upper Amazon Basin (South America)
Size : 1" - 3.5" Males are much larger then Females
Tank Size : 10+ gallons. Larger is better if breeding is desired.
pH : 6.5 - 7.5 ... Tank bred stock can live in higher ph.
Temperature : 7F - 84F Ideally around 80F
Water Hardness : 4 - 6° dH but up to 10 is OK for Captive bred specimens.
Lifespan : 4-5 years
Temperament: More peaceful then most Cichlids.
Feeding: Flake, Live, Frozen.
GENERAL INFORMATION:
This fish is an incredible species to own! I have several varieties and have breed all of them. Males will have the most color on their fins and will grow the largest. I would not call them aggressive but I would call them 'Grumpy'. These fish are naturally found in dense leaf litter and wood, though they will appreciate a planted tank or tank with rock caves. I have kept Apistos in my planted tanks, and several 'Black Water' tanks.
BREEDING:
Breeding can seem tricky, especially if you have high ph/hardness. Generally the best egg and fry survival will be in soft, acidic water. I generally dont alter my water chems but for this species. I came up with a trick that has increased the amount of spawning and fry survival! The key is to have lots of tannins in the water. Add a bag of peat moss to your filter and watch your water darken up and the ph drop! OR you can use oak or almond leaves in the water which will add tannins. This is known as the 'Black Water' effect and in the frog world as 'Tadpole Tea'. Bump the temperature to 80F -82F. Do a cold water change of 30% and a spawn will almost always occur.
Pairs or Harems are formed generally with one male and female or multiple females. The females often will turn a bright yellow when they are ready to spawn and actively guarding eggs or fry.
Female Apistogramma in spawning color - (photo by Craig Taylor)
The pair will find a suitable cave or out cropping where they can conceal and guard their eggs. The female will do most of the work. Clay pots, coconut huts, cave structures, etc. all make excellent breeding spots.
(photo by Craig Taylor)
Eggs are usually laid on the roof of the desired spot and guarded by the female. It is likely she does some sort of fanning to keep circulation around the eggs to prevent fungus. She may eat little during this time. Eggs are generally a bright pink or red color
(photo by Craig Taylor)
The fry will become little wigglers after about 5 days and will feed on their yoke sacs. After about 7 days the fry should be free swimming and will be in a swarm around the mother who will guard them well.
(photo by Craig Taylor)
Agression can be seen at this time, but in my experience has been mild and never resulted in any injury or death.
Feeding Fry can be extremely difficult, a they are some of the smallest fry I have ever seen. they will take powdered food or Frozen BABY Brineshrimp. I have found thought that you will have a much higher survival rate when feeding Live Baby Brinshrimp or Live Vinegar Eels. I generally feed live and crushed flake and as they grow incease the size of the crushed flake. Using a turky baster to gently spray food at the group of fry is helpfull as they may have a hard time finding food in such a large area.
2 day old Fry - (photos by Craig Taylor)
3 week old Fry - (photo by Craig Taylor)
I find Apsitos to be Slower grows, but higher protein and healthy food will increase the grow rates. They can take up to a year before you can sex them and pair them off.
6 month old Fry/Juvies - (photo by Craig Taylor)
9 month old Fry/Juvies - (photo by Craig Taylor)
