Scientific Name : Eublepharus macularius
Common Names : Leopard gecko
Origin : Northwest India, Pakistan, and Asia Minor.
Size : 8" - 10" Males are generally larger then Females.
Tank Size : 10 gallon terrarium. Larger is better.
Temperature : Tank Temperature will vary. (See Below under HOUSING)
Lifespan : Up to 20 years
Temperament: Generally Peaceful.
Feeding: Insects (Crickets, Roaches, Mealworms, etc)
GENERAL INFORMATION:
Leopard Geckos are an awesome and easy reptile to care for.
They are found in the dessert regions of India, Pakistan and Asian Minor. There are many color morphs and patters available, but typical seen are a light colored body with darker spots. Young juveniles are more colorful and often broad striped.
Geckos can be shy at first, but once they realise where the food is coming from, they will warm up to you nicely.
HOUSING:
A 10 gallon aquarium/terrarium is suitable for one or two geckos. I prefer a 20 gallon 'Long' aquarium for 2 or 3 geckos personally. The geckos cannot climb, but I recommend a screen lid for keeping feeder insects fro escaping. A wire lid also provides a place to place a heat lamp.
I prefer to use 'Cage Carpet' for my Gecko substrate. Many people use sand for looks, however, many young geckos become impacted with sand which can be a lethal health issue. I would avoid sand at all costs, though some people have reported no issues with older geckos and sand. Paper towles or clean newspaper is a great substrate as well.
Heating is very important. A heat lamp should be placed at one end of the tank so that there is a temperature difference between one end of the tank and another. the heated end should reach temperatures of 90F. This fluctuation will allow your geckos to choose which spots in the tank they are most comfortable in at any time. It is recommended to have hiding spots or caves at both ends of the tank. I do not recommend an under tank heater or heat rock, as geckos bellies are sensitive, and it is harder to provide a good temperature fluctuation. The heat should be on all the time. (24/7/365)
A 'Humid Hide' should be provided in the tank. This is a small hidding spot that is kept damp where the gecko can go in to aid in shedding, or simply when desired. I recopmend a small deli cup with hole cut into the lid large enough for the gecko to enter or exit. Make sure the edges are not sharp on the hole. Wet sphagnum moss should be inside the cup, and it should be kept damp. You can also use damp paper towel.
Leopard Geckos are generally not messy and often pick a corner of the cage as their bathroom. this makes clean up very easy.
You can also remove your geckos from the cage temporarily and vacuum any present messes.
One male can be housed with multiple females, as long as the geckos are relatively the same size. Multiple males will fight and injury or death can result.
FEEDING AND NUTRITION:
Insects are the main diet of Leopard Geckos. Crickets, Roaches and Mealworms are a great diet. I recommended Roaches or Mealworms, as they are easy culture. Make sure your insects are well fed a 12-24 hours before feeding them to your geckos. I recommend covering them in Viatimin powder and Calcium powder prior to feeding.
I also recommend providing a dish of calcium powder, which geckos will eat from.
A water dish should be provided for thirsty geckos.
See My section on Culturing Live Foods for more information on Roaches and Meal Worms.
SEXING:
Adult males will have a much larger bulge behind the vent. That is where the hemipenes are located. You can also readily see the row of femoral pores shaped like a "V" in front of the vent.
The Female has neither the bulge nor a noticeable row of pores. There is a row there, but it is really not that noticeable.
You will have to wait til the Geckos are about 6 moths old to sex. Juvenile male Leopard Geckos look very much like females.
BREEDING:
Breeding is semi-simple. Houseing a Male and female will often result in breeding. The breeding season is typically long (February - August)
To condition a female for breeding make sure she is well fed and has plenty of calcium. A laying box will need to be provided, which is essentially a larger 'Humid Hide'... You can use sphagnum moss or even vermiculite/perlite.
You can often see eggs under the skin of the females. The female will enter the box and dig around before laying eggs. 2 eggs will be deposited in the dug out spot. She will most likely lay eggs about once every 2-4 weeks and be noticeably skinnier after. She will be very hungry so make sure plenty of food is provided. You can remove the eggs to be incubated. It is very important that you do not turn the eggs and that they remain just as they were, in the incubator. Some people will actually mark the top of each egg with a marker so there is not error when moving.
Incubation can be done in another tank. Temperature will be discussed below. Basically this tank can be another 'Humid Hide' style tank, where the temp is high and so is the humidity. The substrate should be the same as your 'Humid Hide'...
Temperature plays a role in what the sex of your hatched geckos will be. Temps of about 81F will yeil mostly females. Higher temps of 88F will yeilds mostly males. Temps of 85F will be about even, however it is common for some of these to be sterile. It is a good practice to shoot for either males or females, to insure that offspring are fertile.
Hatchlings generally dont eat until they have shed. This can take as long as a week, so dont be alarmed if your geckos aren't eating yet. Hatchlings are also often born with remains of yock sacks attached. They will scrape these off. Keep any eye on youngsters as some can be grumpy. Separate any problematic geckos. In fact, separating all your geckos for a month or 2 is a good idea. They can be kept together until you start sexing them ans separating the males.
